Books, Bites, and Sights

"I sha'n't be gone long. – You come too." – Robert Frost

Hi, there! My name is Natalie Ray, and I am the creator of Books, Bites, and Sights.

This blog is space for me to focus more on the things that bring me joy: reading, yoga, spirituality, early mornings, travel, peanut butter, hot coffee, recovery, love, long phone calls, and more. I won’t be gone long— you come too.

Explore my authentic and unsolicited take on different books, bites, and sights from a variety of destinations by clicking on the drop downs. And don’t forget to leave a comment on your take, suggestions, or experiences.

Alaska. I mean – since we started this 63 in 365 journey, Alaska has been one of the most anticipated portions. 8 Parks. All fairly remote. All expensive. Blah, blah, blah. Many people ask: How did you go about planning for it? My biggest pieces of advice would be: start early (a year in advance), plan to go in June or July, block out the entire month (especially if driving like us), and be flexible – Mother Nature has ultimate control here.

We drove from Seattle up the Stewart – Cassiar Highway through British Columbia and the Yukon to get to Alaska – sleeping at pull-offs along the way. This took us 5 days, but we did make stops to hike and site see along the way (peep my post on Canada for more).

When we finished, we drove from Anchorage down the Alaskan Highway through Alberta, Canada and reentered the United States in North Dakota. That took us nearly a week, but again, we made many stops along the way (one of my favorite parts of this 63 in 365 journey actually!). Again, we slept in parking lots and pull-offs along the way.

And yes, it is expensive. Amory and I saved money where we could, but we also splurged when we wanted. Look. Two people. A month in Alaska. Flights. Gas. Food. Lodging. Stickers (duh, a must). Plan to spend $15,000. Yup. You read that right. $15,000. You may spend less. You may be bougie and spend more. But I can confidently tell you that $15,000 is a good baseline for how much you’ll spend if you are like us and trying to check all the parks off your list in one go.

How can you save?

  • Buy food from a grocery store rather than eating out: Eating in Alaska in general is expensive. But eating tuna, protein bars, oatmeal, etc can save you lots.
  • BYOC, Bring your own car – if you can: You need a 4-wheel drive car to explore Alaska in the capacity we did, but sleeping in and driving our own car saved us the cost of a rental car and in lodging.
  • Just hike instead of doing flight/boat/bus tours, when possible: Some of the parks you can not escape the dumb expensiveness of the flight tours and, truthfully, even though they were very expensive, the flight tours were my favorite parts of exploring Alaska, but if you needed to save, skip the tours and explore via foot.

#1. Denali National Park

July 1st and 2nd, 2026

Camping

Riley Creek Campground
  • $26 a night
  • Right by visitor center
  • Great for hammocking

Bus Tour

Denali Natural History Tour
  • $233.50 for 2 tickets
  • Informative video in bus depot prior to departure
  • Until Denali Park Road is completely open, save your money. While the tour was informative, I don’t feel it was worth the time or money. Although if you’re looking for a gentle way to explore the park, the tour may be what you’re looking for.

Flight Tour

Denali Air Flightseeing Tour to Mt. McKinley
  • $469 per person plus tip $20 per person
  • If you’re in DNP on a clear or semi-clear day and can afford it, this flight tour is a must. Seriously. One of the best experiences I had in Alaska. Prior to the flight tour I was unimpressed with DNP, after the flight tour, I couldn’t pick my jaw up off the floor. The views of the park from the sky are unmatched. And the Denali Air company was accommodating and professional – I highly recommend them.

Bites

Readers, if you know me – you know I am a hot dog girly. I love them, so when we passed Denali Doghouse (less than 10 minutes from the Denali Visitor Center), I couldn’t resist. Fast. Fresh. Affordable. And even accommodating – peep the lettuce bun Amory ordered below.

Hikes/Attractions

Mount Healy Overlook Trail
  • 5.5 mile in-and-out trail
  • Nearby visitor center
  • Great views of the Nenana River Valley
Dog Kennels and Sled Dog Presentation
  • DNP’s Sled Dog Kennel offers a free, but seasonal, 30 minute Alaskan mushing demonstration two to three times daily; Check the visitor center for scheduled times
  • Can shuttle or walk to kennel from the visitor center
  • Very kid-friendly
  • Don’t forget to bring your stamp passport!

#2. Kenai Fjords National Park

July 2nd – 5th, 2026

To get to our second national park in Alaska, Amory and I drove to Seward, Alaska from Denali National Park – roughly 6.5 hours.

Camping

  • Creek View Campground: simple campground with privacy walls between each site, potable water and electric hookups at each site, port-a-potties nearby, $55 a night
  • Seward Municipal Campground: options for shoreline or wooded sites (we had one night in each type), bathhouse nearby with free showers and flush toilets – cleanliness of the bathhouse/restrooms was hit-or-miss, $20 a night

Hikes

Harding Icefield Trail
  • 8.2 mile in-and-out trail
  • Stop at the Glacier View and Outwash Plain along the way
  • Check visitor center prior to your ascent for trail conditions – We were not able to go all the way to the ice field itself, having to turn around 1.5 miles from the top, due to snow coverage and unsafe trail conditions – still worth the climb, but being aware is key

Boat Tour

Northwestern Fjord Tour through Kenai Fjords Tours
  • $610 for two tickets
  • Fully-narrated, phenomenal captain and crew
  • 8 hour tour
  • Highlights: Fox island, unclose views of Northwestern Glacier, calving glaciers, otters, seals, sea lions, whales, puffins, margaritas made of glacier ice – yes, you read that last part right
  • Complimentary light breakfast and coffee, Deli-style lunch

Dinner Boat Cruise

Dinner Boat Evening Cruise through Kenai Fjords Tours
  • $511 for two dinner tickets
  • 6 hour cruise
  • Highlights: dinner – duh, Holgate glacier, Aialik glacier, Chiswell islands, seabirds, sea lions, seals
  • Multi-course dinner – the food was legit, accommodating, and all around yummy. I had the crab cakes and teriyaki glazed wild Alaskan salmon. Amory had the gluten-free falafel salad and the braised boneless beef short-ribs. For desert we had the flourless chocolate cake with rhubarb raspberry Alaskan birch syrup. *chef’s kiss*

Bites

  • Supaluck’s Bakery: grab and go drip coffee, fresh baked macadamia/matcha cookie, dairy-free overnight oats; conveniently across the road from Kenai Fjords Tours
  • Rowdy Radish Cafe: comfy, chic cafe – a lot of personality and a great ambiance with house made chocolate covered energy balls, loose-leaf tea, almond milk latte; downtown Seward

Attractions

Alaska SeaLife Center
  • Downtown Seward; Walkable to from the Seward Municipal Campground
  • $35 a ticket
  • 2 hours is enough time for the complete experience
  • Highlights: Touch tanks, up close puffin encounters, sea lions, seals

#3. Wrangell-St. Elias National Park

July 6th and 7th, 2026

To get to national park number three on our Alaskan leg of the 63 in 365 journey, Amory and I drove up from Seward, Alaska, down the infamous 60 mile McCarthy gravel road, to Wrangell – St. Elias National Park – a 10.5 hour excursion.

Books, Bites, Insights? for driving down McCarthy road:

  • Go slow – seriously. We had to stop and help someone who blew a tire along the way. At times, you may feel you can pick up the speed, but don’t. Just take your time and avoid the headache of a roadside emergency.
  • It isn’t as bad as Reddit makes it sound. I didn’t feel the road was as bad as some users made it out to be in terms of conditions or windiness (but remember, Amory and I drive a 4Runner – not a sedan); Many portions were actually paved.
  • Be prepared. There is no gas nor no cell service once you pass Chitina, AK.

Getting There

At the end of McCarthy road, there is a large gravel parking lot – Base Camp Kennicott. We booked two nights at the lodge, so parking and shuttling were included; however, if not, parking here will cost you $12 – $35 dollars a day and the shuttle to and from the park was $10 per person, one-way.

After parking, we walked across the pedestrian bridge and waited for the shuttle. The drive into the park took about 15 minutes.

Lodging

Kennicott Glacier Lodge
  • Historical
  • Located in the the historic Kennicott Mill Town with sweeping views of the Wrangell Mountains and Kennicott Glacier from the veranda
  • Shared bathrooms
  • $490 for two nights – no food included in that price

Hiking/Attractions

Root Glacier Trail
  • 6 miles in-and-out
  • Can safely walk on and explore the glacier
  • Spikes/crampons are a must
Historic Self-Guided Tours throughout the Kennicott Mill Town
  • Stop into the many different historic buildings (the general store, post office, etc) within the mill town to learn more about the rich history of both the town and park

Bites

  • Ernesto’s Latin Cuisine in Glennallen, Alaska: One of the last places you can stop before heading deeper into the Alaskan backcountry on your way to Wrangell – St. Elias NP. The staff and owner couldn’t have been kinder – offering me upgraded menu items at no cost.
  • Kennicott Glacier Lodge’s breakfast buffet and lunch/dinner menu: Books, Bites, and Insights? If Amory and I were to replan our visit to WSENP, we would purchase the food plan through the lodge. The food was fresh, varied, and overall tasty every time. Dairy-free, gluten-free, and other accommodations were available.
  • The Meatza Wagon food truck: A must when visiting the Kennicott Mill Town – located right outside the lodge’s front steps. Choosing only one thing from the Meatza Wagon’s unique menu was the hardest part. I ended up going with their Salmon BLT – Wild caught sockeye salmon, local greens, hickory smoked bacon, wrapped in a pita bread.
  • Strawberry smoothie at Koya’s Cup Espresso in Chitina, Alaska: The last stop before getting to the gravel portion of the McCarthy road. We didn’t stop on our way in, but snagged a smoothie on our way out. Nothing fancy. But hit the spot none the less.

#4. Katmai National Park

July 10th – 13th, 2026

Now for my favorite Alaskan park – Katmai. Biggest suggestion I have: stay a night or two either in the campground or at the lodge. If you can’t no biggie – go anyway! But if you can, it is a life changing experience. Once the day crowds dissipate, you can experience the park, the falls, and the bears, in a more unique, isolated way that just isn’t possible with the day time crowds and wait times.

Getting There

  • Flight to King Salmon Airport from Anchorage, AK: Paid with airline points (roughly an $800 dollar equivalent) for two people round trip through Alaska Airlines
  • Water taxi from King Salmon’s Lake Camp Boat Launch to Brooks Camp in KNP through Katmai Water Taxi: bus shuttle from airport to boat launch included, water taxi trip cannot be booked as a roundtrip and must be booked as singular trips to and fro, $410 plus tip for two people one way, 45 minute ride, weather dependent

Once you arrive at Brooks Camp, it is a short walk to the visitor center for check-in and mandatory bear school (the do’s and don’t while in Katmai amount the bears). Readers – I was worried about the logistics of arriving and checking-in, but it was one of the easiest processes of our Alaskan leg. Very self-explanatory and an abundance of helpful staff along the way.

Camping

Brooks Campground
  • Very competitive
  • Must apply via recreation.gov; however, sites sell out within minutes of becoming available – we secured our spots for July in February.
  • $20 a night
  • An abundant amount of gas canisters and bug sprays were left behind and up for the taking by previous campers, so if you’re flying and can’t bring those things, don’t worry.
  • Worried about bears? Don’t be. I was. But after going to the bear school and setting up camp, I quickly realized how safe and secure the campground is. All campers were intentional with taking precautions and following the rules. Additionally, the entire campground was encompassed by an electric fence to deter the bears away and the food caches were secure and easy to use.

Bear Viewing/Hiking

Brooks Falls Trail
  • 2.5 mile in-and-out trail from Brooks Lodge
  • You will encounter bears on the trail – stay with a group, stay calm, move slowly, back up and off the trail when a bear comes close, and make noise
  • Multiple gated boardwalks over the Brooks River that are worth stopping on along the way – North platform, South platform
  • Once at the falls you have two options: the Falls platform and the Riffles platform; At the Falls platform you’re more likely to see male bears catching and eating salmon, while at the Riffles platform, you’re more likely to see female bears with cubs scavenging

If you go during the day when the day crowd is there expect to wait 1 to 2 hours during peak times to be allowed onto the platforms. Yep. 1 to 2 hours. When you get to the platforms, you put your name on a list and your waiting game begins – which stinks, especially if you have a set time you have to depart the park. Because Amory and I camped multiple nights, we were able to go before and after the day crowds – which allowed us to go out onto the platforms immediately without any wait time for as long as we wanted.

Falls Platform at the end of the Brooks Falls Trail – sunny day

Bus Tour

Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes Bus Tour
  • 9 am – 4 pm
  • 46 mile narrated bus trip with two stops along the way
  • Once at the Robert F. Griggs Visitor Center, you have an option to take a 3.5 mile in-and-out ranger led hike to Ukak Falls
  • $100 per person, a deli lunch can be provide for an additional $20 per person

Bites

  • Watters Edge food truck in King Salmon: Across the road from the airport – we ordered the grilled salmon with pasta salad and white rice while we waited for our bus shuttle to the water taxi
  • King Salmon Groceries: Again, a simple walk across the road from the airport – not expecting much but being pleasantly surprised, we found Kombucha Town’s (a semi-local company – brewed in Bellingham, WA) Blueberry White kombucha and their Live Seltzer Cucumber Probiotic sparkling water
  • Katmai Lodge’s breakfast and dinner buffets: Let’s be honest readers – lodge food. Typically, historically, cliche-ily never good. And in a remote, water-locked part of Alaska? Forget about it. But shockingly not here. Not at Katmai. Katmai Lodge’s food was by far the best lodge food I have ever had in my life. Well worth the price. Everyday the menu changed and offered an abundance of choice with all the accommodations.

The ambiance at Katmai’s Brooks Lodge is unmatched. When escaping the rain, we found ourselves snuggled up by the fireplace, chatting with strangers from all over the globe, and playing dominoes. Such a respite from the grind of daily life in our modern world.

#5. Glacier Bay National Park

July 15th – 17th, 2026

Getting There

After flying back to Anchorage from King Salmon, Amory and I caught a flight into Juneau, exploring the city during our layover, on our way to our fifth Alaskan park – Glacier Bay.

Logistics:

  • Fly to Juneau from Anchorage
  • Fly from Juneau to Gustavus – $734.04 for both Amory and I’s round trip tickets

If you have a long layover like Amory and I did, Juneau is worth checking out. We had to Uber to and from the airport (~$40 round trip), but I highly recommend it. Juneau is a beautiful city, squished into the cloudy, misty mountainside. With loads of cafes, food trucks, and shops to explore: I put it at the top of my list of places to revisit when we come back to Alaska.

Lodging

Glacier Bay Lodge
  • Two nights for $603.18 – shuttle to and from Gustavus airport included
  • Blackout curtains – god sent when visiting Alaska
  • Tucked away inside the park amoungst groves and boardwalks
  • A short walk from anything and everything that Glacier Bay has to offer – really enjoyed our stay at this lodge, but the staff/park rangers weren’t very knowledgeable or advisable about what the park/lodge has to offer, so pre-research is key!

Boat Tour

Boat Tour through Glacier Bay Lodge and Tours
  • $547.14 for two people
  • This is one of the only boat tours offered in the park, and it is very subpar – neat but nothing notable. I would say save your money or spend it elsewhere, but when visiting GBNP, you’re left with little options on how you can explore the park, so you’ll have to bite the bullet on this one. On a positive note though, we saw otters, sea birds, a bear, mountain goats, seals, and sea lions.
  • And, unfortunately, even after asking front desk staff and a park ranger about other tours/offered experiences when we arrived, it wasn’t until when we were leaving that we found out that there were whale watching tours available. Boo! We would have totally signed up had we of known. Again – do your research prior.

Hiking/Attractions

  • Casually walk the shoreline to the campground: Otters on otters on otters!
  • Ranger Evening Program at 6 pm upstairs at the visitor center: TBH, and as mentioned above, experiences in Glacier Bay are limited, so why not sit in on an evening program? We learned more about GBNP, glaciers in general, and how glaciers shaped the geological and historical history park.
  • Xunaa Shuká Hít (Huna Ancestors’ House): Open 1 – 5:30 with a recorded program running every 30 – 45 minutes; worth a stop if you are free, especially to learn more about the native people of the area. And if I am being honest, while listening to the speakers, I found myself emotional and crying – quickly feeling deeply spiritual in the space and overly connected to my own ancestors and past.
  • Forest Loop Trail (1 mile loop): A gentle hike through lush forest with viewing decks where wildlife often feed and rest – we saw a mama moose with claves eating water lillies at the blackwater pond
  • Tlingit Trail (0.5 mile one way along shoreline) which connects to the Bartlett River Trail (4.5 mile in-and-out): The skeleton of Snow, a 45.5-foot-long female humpback whale, outside the visitor center at the start of the Tlingit Trail is a must see while the trek through the spruces and hemlocks to the mouth of the Bartlett River via the Bartlett River Trail is certainly skippable – but enjoyable nonetheless.

Books

The boat tour is an all day affair – so I spent a good portion of it with my feet kicked up reading and learning about both the plants and animals of the park.

Bites

Glacier Bay Lodge’s Fairweather Dining Room

Unless you bring your own food or just prefer snack foods from their gift store, you’re left with little choice when dining in Glacier Bay – but the lodge does have a restaurant that serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner.

  • Outdoor seating
  • Breakfast buffet – $22 per person, always a solid choice
  • Dinner menu – small portions for ~$30 a plate

#6 + #7. Kobuk Valley National Park and Gates of the Arctic National Park

July 20th – 23rd, 2026

After returning to Anchorage from Glacier Bay NP, Amory and I headed toward two of the most remote, two of the least visited, and two of the most expensive of all of the US National Parks – Kabuki Valley and Gates of the Arctic.

Want my unsolicited, hot take? These two were my least favorite of all the Alaskan parks, and, personally, both parks would rank significantly low on a list of all 63 national parks.

Before you go on and on about how I could have trekked more in both or rafted or whatever, those were not feasible or timely options for us. We visited these parks in the capacity most do (a touchdown flight tour), so keep in mind that my write up of these parks reflects my experience. Do these parks have more potential and have more to offer than what I experienced? Duh – which parks don’t? But I personally would hard skip visiting these two unless you are trying to check them off your park list.

Getting There

Step 1: fly into Kotzebue, AK (~$400 per person ticket, but we paid with flight points) and cross your fingers your flights land and depart on schedule. The day we were set to fly out, our flights were delayed because of a volcano eruption on the Kamchatka Peninsula (in Russia!). This left us scrambling to find lodging (only one hotel in town) and paying an extra $350 for the extra night, alongside additional food costs.

Lodging

Step 2: walk to hotel – Nullgavik Hotel, one of the only places for lodging in the town. Be sure to make reservations.

Our original plan was to only stay two nights for a total of $736.96, but with the flight delay we had to book an extra night for $365.

  • Clean, blackout curtains, all the typical hotel amenities
  • Restaurant in lobby
  • Convenient location – but also the town is itty bitty lol

Step 3: explore Kotzebue by foot – as mentioned above, the town is itty bitty and worth walking around. We explored the entire town and a bit of the outskirts in one afternoon. Kotzebue doesn’t have much to do – but here are some highlights:

  • Northwest Arctic Heritage Center
  • Alaska Commercial Company grocery store – so expensive, peep the prices below
  • Walk the shoreline of the Kotzebue Sound along Shore Avenue
  • Walk to Swan Lake and Kotzebue Lagoon

Flight Tours

Step 4: book a flight tour with Golden Eagle Outfitters – a whopping $3900 for two people.

This experience was very underwhelming. And I would not recommend unless you really want to check off all the parks on your list. Was being in the remote wilderness, miles away from anyone, in legit silence a once in a lifetime experience? Yes – totally. Would I spend $4,000 or even $500 to do it again, nope. Absolutely not.

  • 4 hours total
  • We did see muskox from the sky
  • Because of good weather, we were able to touchdown for about 30 minutes in both parks

Bites

BYOF: Bring your own food. Dehydrated meals, oatmeal, trail mix, protein bars, beef jerky. Amory and I used the coffee maker in the hotel to boil water. With only a handful of restaurants/cafes in town and very steeply priced groceries, you’ll thank me later for this advice.

  • Empress Chinese Restaurant: On average $35 a plate but generous portions – hot, fresh, authentic. I went twice! The owner was so kind too. Highly recommend.
  • Nullgavik Hotel: Again, nearly $35 a plate. Not the fanciest, but not the worst – especially for a remote, inaccessible town above the arctic circle.

#8. Lake Clark National Park

July 25th, 2026

Last, but not least – Lake Clark National Park. And boy did she gave use a lot of trouble. Because of weather, we had to reschedule our flight tour not once but twice. Luckily, we had loads of flexibility – with LCNP being our last scheduled park in Alaska, so we were prepared to wait the weather out.

Unfortunately, we did not get to go to Lake Clark itself – our flight tour taking us only to Chinitna Bay, a remote coastal estuary in the southern portion of LCNP. However, this is one of the Alaskan parks that I will gladly quote the terminator on, emphasizing: “I’ll be back.”

Flight Tour

Rust’s Flying Service
  • Chinitna Bay Bear Viewing tour
  • Fly out of Anchorage
  • $2,400 for two people
  • Highlights: flyover of the Aleutian Range, beluga whales in the Cook Inlet, volcanoes, once you land a guide takes you via bus to three different bear viewing spots

And that’s a wrap love bugs. It has been a wild last two months. Amory and I finished our journey. Signed a lease. Moved into our new apartment. I got a job teaching first grade! Ah! All the things. The transition has been overwhelming, but I am glad to be settling down for a spell. Keep reading below for my quick, hot take on Kristin Hannah and her novels – and be on the look out in the weeks to come for write ups on the final few parks of our 63 in 365 journey: Theodore, Wind Cave, and Acadia. XOXO, until next week (hopefully).

My Kristen Hannah Hot Takes

  • Personal favorite? The Four Winds
  • Over-hyped? The Nightingale
  • Quick take? Her newer novels are significantly better than her older novels

Agree? Disagree? Hash it out with me in the comments, please.

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