Books, Bites, and Sights

April 29th – May 1st, 2026

Books, Bites, and Lakes: My Take on How to Explore Grand Teton National Park

Amory and I only had three days in GTNP – boo. And we went preseason, so many things were still inaccessible due to snow and Winter closures. But when I reminisce on my favorite moments in the park, I find myself reliving the memories of Amory and I sitting on the crystal clear shores of the many mirror-like lakes we came across. The abundant wildlife we encountered while watching the waves lap the rainbow pebble shores. And the fresh and crisp mountain breeze that blew over the still water onto our faces.

Three days isn’t enough time to explore all the lakes in the park, but Amory and I did make it to three: Phelps, Jenny, and Swan. All three different. All three stunning. All three worth exploring. Read on to learn more.

Camping

Because we went preseason, all the campgrounds in the park expect the Gros Ventre Campground were still closed; however, the Gros Ventre Campground was solid – clean, staffed, and accommodating. Gros Ventre is located in the southeast portion of the park, is the closest campground to Jackson Hole, is $60 a night, and is a stroll away from the Gros Ventre River.

The campsite also gave me the perfect spot to set up my hammock and crack into two new novels.

I cannot recommend American Dirt by Jeanine Cummins enough. The emotions I felt reading this one were visceral, and I didn’t know how much I was sobbing until I noticed the tears soaking the pages. The compassion and insight I gained from this fictional thriller were mounting, and if you can walk away from this book untouched and unaffected, you are a psychopath.

On the other hand, I cannot recommend Strangers: A Memoir of Marriage by Belle Burden. For me, the story fell flat. I felt sympathetic to Burden’s situation, but, as she stated herself multiple times throughout the novel, she is very privileged. Does that make what happened to her any less valid? No. Her experiences any less real? No. I wouldn’t wish it on anyone. But her privilege, which was apparent with every flip of the page, made it far less interesting for me and I think other readers would agree – especially those readers who also lack multimillion dollar trust funds with their name on them.

Phelps Lake

AllTrails: Phelps Lake, Lake Creek, and Woodland Loop

Located on the Southern end of the Teton Range, this moderate 6.5 mile lake loop is less traversed making it perfect for spotting wildlife. We saw multiple moose and even a cinnamon black bear! Books, bites, insights? If you want to see wildlife, you must hit the trails early. We have been told by rangers that mammals and birds are most active early in the morning and late in the afternoon, and as more people get on the trail, the less animals sightings there are.

Phelps Lake also has a spur trail into Death Canyon. I’ve heard this is worth exploring; however, it was still covered in snow when Amory and I went.

Jenny Lake

AllTrails: Jenny Lake Trail

Centrally located in the park and offering the most iconic view of the namesake Grand Teton, this 7 mile lake loop at the base of the Grand Teton Range is a must. We saw ample marmots and moose while walking along the trail, but due to this destination’s popularity, this trail can become very crowded very quickly, so again, plan to start early if you want to spot wildlife.

Along the route there are a few must-sees including: Hidden Falls, Inspiration Point, and the breathtaking mountain reflection at the Jenny Lake Overlook.

Books, bites, insights? Hike the loop counter clockwise for the best views of the Grand Teton Range.

Swan Lake

AllTrails: Swan Lake and Heron Pond Trail

Located in the Northern Colter Bay Area of the park near the more popular Jackson Lake, this easy 3 mile loop through forest, wetland, and meadows turned out to be one of Amory and I’s favorites. Why? You probably could’ve guessed it: wildlife. Around every bend Amory and I spotted critters out doing their thing. Moose lapping water in the ponds. Eagles and herons flying overhead. Beavers carrying sticks into their dens. We loved this trail! And it was super simple making it the perfect late evening wind-down trail after a long day of exploring.

Scenic Drive

Wanting to explore the park, but hiking isn’t an option for you or your family? Don’t worry. I can confidently say that you can explore GTNP fully from your car without missing all the best stuff.

Juvenile Natalie wanted out of the car NOW. Ready to hit the trails. Ready to explore. But 28 year-old-Natalie with less than ideal knees has come to love to those mindless scenic drives through the parks – as a passenger princess of course.

A/C on. Sunroof open. Noah Kahan’s new album The Great Divide playing in the background. No bugs. No effort. Just beautiful sights for miles and miles and miles.

And when it comes to scenic drives, Grand Teton National Park takes the cake. Easily offering one of the most stunning scenic drives I’ve had on this trip. And I want to reiterate that easy part. The 42 mile scenic loop at Grand Teton is very easy to drive. No winding, twisting, nausea inducing teeny-tiny narrow roads through mountain passes – rather just an easy cruise through the Eastern flats with the towering Teton Range ever-present in the distance.

Books, Bites, Insights? For the 42 mile scenic loop, I recommend driving it counterclockwise. Drive in the South entrance, turn right at Moose Junction toward Moran Junction. At Moran Junction turn left toward Jackson Lake Junction. Once at the crossroad, turn left at Jackson Lake Junction onto Teton Park road. Do the optional one way Jenny Lake Scenic Drive for the Jenny Lake Overlook. Finally, complete the loop by driving all the way back to Moose Junction.

Amory and I still have a long journey ahead of us with many parks to come, but I do wonder if any of the remaining national parks will have what it takes to top Grand Teton’s lakes. I really feel this park may have the most diverse and stunning lakes of all 63. But we will see won’t we readers. And as you know, I will keep you updated.

Anyway, cold plunge anyone? Xoxo, with love, and until next week.