Books, Bites, and Sights

"I sha'n't be gone long. – You come too." – Robert Frost

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About Me

Hi, there! My name is Natalie Ray, and I am the creator of Books, Bites, and Sights.

This blog is space for me to focus more on the things that bring me joy: reading, yoga, spirituality, early mornings, travel, peanut butter, hot coffee, recovery, love, long phone calls, and more. I won’t be gone long— you come too.

Explore my authentic and unsolicited take on different books, bites, and sights from a variety of destinations by clicking on the drop downs. And don’t forget to leave a comment on your take, suggestions, or experiences.

  • Yellowstone National Park

    May 2 – 3, 2026 and May 6 – 9, 2026

    I hate to break it to you reader, but you’ll never be able to feel complete after a visit to Yellowstone National Park. Why? Because there is just so much to do and see here. From otherworldly geographical phenomena to acres and acres of wild life, Yellowstone is, for a lack of better words, both epic and vast.

    This was my second visit to YNP. My first being a one day drive through visit with my grandpa and cousins in July 2023; however, that visit only gave me a taste of and a longing to return to this “Wonderland of the American West.”

    In an effort to explore all the things Yellowstone has to offer, Amory and I strategically planned our visit. Tightly crossing our fingers in hopes that we wouldn’t miss out on too much.

    I highly recommend being strategic when visiting Yellowstone and doing something similar to what Amory and I did. Many of the sections are hours from one another. If you miss something and want to go back to that section, you’ll be doing a lot of backtracking and driving (which if that is your thing – ignore me, and you do you lol).

    With your YNP park map handy, you’ll easily see the park is divided into sections, typically with visitor centers in the epicenter of each section. With only one week to explore, we grouped a few of the sections together, creating six total sections. One day to explore each section (which surprisingly still isn’t enough time).

    • Mammoth Hot Springs
    • Canyon Village
    • West Thumb/Lake Village/Fishing Bridge
    • Tower – Roosevelt
    • Old Faithful
    • Madison/Norris.

    To find out which sections are Yellowstone staples, which sections offer quick stop and go sights, and which sections can’t be missed, keep scrolling.

    Mammoth Hot Springs (Day 1)

    An iconic part of Yellowstone, Mammoth Hot Springs is the first section you’ll get to if entering the park through the North entrance. No geysers here. Only steaming (and stinking) hot springs alongside hills of travertine (limestone buildup). Need food, stamps, gas, souvenirs? The Mammoth Hot Springs section has all the amenities.

    • Mammoth Hot Springs Terraces: 2 mile boardwalks through picturesque thermal hot springs; a must-do
    • Upper Terrace Scenic Drive: A 1.5 mile one way scenic drive; skippable
    • Bunsen Peak: A 4.5 mile in-and-out trail with great views of the park below without gaining too much elevation and without requiring too much effort. This is easily a half-day hike worthy of your time; a must-do
    • Rustic Falls: A quick stop and go waterfall over volcanic rock located right off the roadway only 5 miles south of Mammoth Hot Springs; a stop-and-go
    Bunsen Peak Summit Viewpoint
    Bunsen Peak Viewpoint
    Mammoth Hot Springs Travertine
    Mammoth Hot Springs
    Rustic Falls

    Canyon Village (Day 2)

    Buckle up readers – Canyon Village requires a full day of exploration. This section revolves around the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone and the Yellowstone River, and while yes you can make this a stop-and-go, “seen it, saw it” move on section, taking in the canyon, the river, and all the waterfalls from multiple angles is the way. Aside from the the trails and sights, Canyon Village has a huge general store where we stocked up on ground bison meat, sweet potatoes, locally brewed kombuchas (Nourishing Culture made in Missoula), huckleberry coffee, and hummus.

    • North Rim Drive: Drive 1.5 miles along this scenic road making stops at Inspiration Point, Grand View Point, and Lookout Point for different viewpoint of the canyon and accompanying waterfalls; skippable if doing South Rim trails
    • Upper Falls and Lower Falls Viewpoints: While driving from the North Rim to the South Rim, be sure to stop at both the Upper Falls and Lower Falls viewpoints; a stop-and-go
    • Brink of the Lower Falls Trail: This additional 0.8 out-and-back trail was worth it for a close up of the Lower Falls; Books, Bites, Insights? Go early. This one was starting to get crowded even at 8 am; a must-do
    • Clear Lake Artist Point Loop Trail: This 4 mile loop trail takes you to two lakes and through some of the park’s emblematic thermal features. You’ll hit all the popular, crowded viewpoints (Artist Point) along the South Rim, but also have a more secluded, relaxed trek with great scenery. We went early and saw a lonesome coyote near Clear Lake! In other words, keep your bear spray handy, and your eyes peeled. Books, Bites, Insights? Hike counterclockwise; a must-do
    Clear Lake
    Campfire Dinner made entirely of goods from the Canyon Village General Store
    Artist Point
    Yellowstone Falls View from Inspiration Point
    Brink of the Lowers Falls at Yellowstone Falls
    Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone

    West Thumb, Lake Village, and Fishing Bridge (Day 3)

    A significantly different experience, yet still vey much giving all the Yellowstone vibes, comes from exploring the West Thumb/Lake Village/Fishing Bridge areas. Amory and I only had six days, so we clumped all three of these areas together to create one day devoted to Yellowstone Lake. If you’re like Amory, then one of you favorite aspects of visiting the parks is viewing all the critters – and if that is the case, be sure not to skip this Southern portion of the park.

    • Mud Volcano Trail: 1 mile of looping boardwalk over and through bubbling, steaming mud pits with famous sights like the never ceasing Churning Cauldron and the eponymous Dragon’s Mouth Spring; a must-do
    • LeHardys Rapids: A riverside trail that is notorious for birdwatching and angling. Amory and I only stopped here because a park ranger mentioned it was the place to go to see wildlife, and we both agree it was well worth the stop. Because we were visiting during peak migration time, we were blessed with seeing the rare and colorful Harlequin Duck!; skippable
    • Pelican Creek Nature Trail: A 1 mile loop through the forest with opportunities to break free of the trail and wander the shores of the lake. I was set on seeing a Pelican and logging it on my Merlin app life list. Did this trail deliver? Was I able to log a pelican? Yes, it did, and yes, I was! After leaving the trail and walking the coast, I spotted two resting pelicans on an offshore sandbar. Books, Bites, Insights? Bring your binoculars. You can’t do Yellowstone without a pair – seriously. More on that insight below; skippable
    • West Thumb Geyser Basin: What will you find on this 0.75 mile looping boardwalk trail? Geysers, vibrant hot springs, mud pits, with sweeping lake and mountain views. The color palette here is inspiring (eye catching electric blues aside washed out grays), and going right after sunrise gave us an early, romantic morning stroll accompanied by both birdsong and a gentle lake breeze; a must-do
    Yellowstone Lake
    West Thumb Geyser Basin
    Mud Volcano
    Pelican Valley

    Tower – Roosevelt (Day 4)

    Okay readers. We have arrived. Its time to blab about my favorite portion of YNP: Lamar Valley. Lamar Valley is located in the Tower – Roosevelt region of the park and is a well known and a very popular area for wildlife enthusiasts like Amory and myself. The best time for seeing all the critters doing all the things is just before sunrise, so you need to be strategic when planning your Lamar Valley/Tower – Roosevelt day. Timing is key for getting the most out of this area, so be sure to research how far you’ll need to drive and when the sunrise is. We camped in Madison, nearly two hours away, so our alarms went off at 3:45 am that morning – bleh. But it was so worth it. I promise. Why? Hunting wolf packs, black and grizzly bears, red dogs, bison, and more. Keep reading for my unsolicited tips on it all.

    • Lamar Valley: As mentioned above, Lamar Valley is the place to go in Yellowstone if you want to see wildlife. Books, Bites, Insights? Bring a pair of binoculars. We have the Nocs Provisions Standard Issue 10 X 25 binoculars which are very novice-friendly and not too costly. Most wildlife will be far off, and you’ll need a camera with a good zoom or binoculars to see anything other than black specks in the distance. But where in Lamar Valley do I need to go? Drive into the valley and when you see a bunch of other people out on the side of the road with scopes and cameras, pull over and ask them what they are seeing. Most people are so kind and will point you in the right direction; a must-do
    • Trout and Buck Lake: My favorite hike in Yellowstone. This 2 mile loop is steep at first, but generally short and sweet afterward. As you circle Trout Lake, you’ll get vast views of the valley with the Absaroka Mountains and Druid Peak in the background. We did see a grizzly bear on this trail, but it was at least 300 feet away. Shew! Buck Lake is a bit tougher to navigate – less traversed, so the path is a bit less maintained, but at Buck Lake we saw (and heard) Sandhill Cranes. Which sound like dinosaurs if you’re unfamiliar. Epic; a must-do
    • Tower Fall: This very hidden waterfall is a short (and very accessible) walk from the parking lot, but I was very disappointed with this one. While it is grand, you can’t really get a good look at it, and you can’t access the base of the falls either; skippable
    • Upper and Lower Undine Falls via Lave Creek Trail: To view Undine Falls, you can simply pull over at the pullout on the main road, but Amory and I took the Lave Creek Trail to get a better view. 100% worth it. An easy 1.5 mile in-and-out trail that takes you right above the falls with plenty of places to sit back and take in the view; a must-do
    • Wraith Falls: A 1 mile in-and-out trail that takes you to a waterfall. Relatively easy and flat – no bulky backpack or trekking poles needed; skippable
    • Petrified Tree Trail: Okay, this one may be dumb for some, but I kind of loved it. You park, walk a few hundred feet, and view an upright petrified tree. A nearly 50 million-year-old tree, what? Where else can you see something like that? Crazy when you really sit and stare and think on it; skippable
    Lamar Valley
    Lamar Valley Bison with Red Dogs
    Bones at Buck Lake
    Undine Falls via Lave Creek
    Tower Fall
    Trout Lake

    Old Faithful (Day 5)

    Iconic, crowded, lots of amenities, but very accessible. Need I say more? Visiting Yellowstone and not seeing Old Faithful would be massive faux pas. But the area does have more to offer than the famous geyser.

    • Lower Geyser Basin and Fountain Paint Pot: Erupting geysers, steaming hot springs and fumaroles, bubbling mud pits. This section of Yellowstone has it all and is one of the most accessible boardwalks in the park. Seasons matter – more rain/water, more bubbles and steam. Parking is bleh – so be weary of that; a must-do
    • Midway Geyser Basin and Grand Prismatic Spring: This 1 mile looping boardwalk allows you to walk directly up to the Grand Prismatic Spring and over geothermal ground; a must-do
    • Upper Geyser Basin and Old Faithful Geyser: Here you will find Old Faithful. I’ve seen her go off more than a handful of times, and she was always within a 10 minute window of her predicted time. Stop by the visitor center, check her predicted time, and be there 10 minutes before the predicted time ready to go. Outside of watching Old Faithful erupt, I highly recommend doing the 3 mile Upper Geyser Basin Loop with its nearly 150 hydrothermal features; a must-do, duh
    • Fairy Falls Trail and Grand Prismatic Spring Overlook: This 5 mile out-and-back trail takes you to a 200 foot waterfall. Here Amory and I met a very friendly marmot who curiously stayed 10 feet from us the entire time we sat at the waterfall. The trail to the falls made us feel like we were Hansel and Gretel hiking through the woods – aka kind of creepy on an overcast day. Its a relatively easy and boring hike in, but I enjoyed it after rushing around all day. The best part of this trail is that half a mile in you can go up to the Grand Prismatic Spring Overlook to get an arial view of the spring. Don’t skip this part. You can view the spring up close, but being up close doesn’t quite capture the colors like the overlook does; a must-do, even if you don’t go all the way to the falls
    Fairy Falls
    Grand Prismatic Spring Overlook
    Grand Prismatic Spring
    Upper Geyser Basin
    Old Faithful Geyser

    Madison & Norris (Day 6)

    Centrally located and open preseason, Amory and I opted to camp in the Madison area at the Madison Campground for $38 a night. Highly recommend – very clean campground, friendly staff, and heated bathrooms.

    At Madison Campground I was able to set up my Eno Hammock and knock out not one but two viral books – Yesteryear by Claro Claire Burke, a book about a tradwife influencer (I had never heard this term prior to cracking open this novel lol), and Remarkably Bright Creatures by Shelby Van Pelt, a novel about grief told through multiple POVs – including the POV of an octopus. Both books get a three out of five stars from me. Why? The plots in and of themselves deserve the hype. Both stories are unique and highly creative, but, for me, both fell flat at the end. Here is my final take: Yesteryear has a great hook, but the ending twists and noncontinuous timelines led to confusion and disappointment, and Remarkably Bright Creatures had an annoyingly slow and predictable ending.

    Anyway back to the park. There is very limited cell service (virtually none) and no Wi-Fi hubs in Yellowstone, so if you need service, you’ll need to go to a neighboring town. Luckily for us, West Yellowstone was only a 20 minute drive from our campground. In West Yellowstone we were able to grab some coffees, work on content, send emails, blah, blah, blah. Other than camping in the area, most of the activities in the Madison and Norris area are quick stop-and-go’s but essential stops when visiting Yellowstone nonetheless.

    • Norris Geyser Basin: 3 miles of boardwalk encompassing the park’s hottest, oldest, and most volatile thermal features; skippable if you’ve done the other thermal stuff, but also very unique if the thermal stuff is your thing
    • Artists Paintpots: A 1 mile loop through colorful thermal hot springs, including Blood Geyser, and mud pots; again, skippable if you’ve already done lots of thermal sightseeing, but I did like this one for the inspirational aspects. Plus, it was more secluded and less busy than the other thermal areas.
    • Firehole Canyon Drive: A 2 mile one-way scenic detour with 800 foot canyon walls, views of the Firehole River (a thermal river nonetheless), and a pullout for Firehole Falls; a must-do
    • Gibbon Falls: A quick stop and go waterfall along the main road that cascades over the remnants of the Yellowstone caldera (the cauldron part of the volcano); a stop-and-go
    Cafe (Espresso & Ice Cream House) in West Yellowstone with ample free parking in the back
    Cafe Patio Seating
    Norris Geyser Basin
    Norris Geyser Basin
    Steamboat Geyser
    Artists Paintpots
    Firehole Falls
    Gibbon Falls
    Madison Campground

    Shew, did you get all that reader? Yellowstone was a mammoth of a park to visit and write home about, but look at us – we made it to the end. Until next week, or next time, or whenever. Xoxoxo, with love.

    But before I go here are all, and I am probably missing some, of the critters I spotted while in Yellowstone: Bison (yes, bison – technically not buffalo) with their calves (commonly nick named red dogs), a black bear cub, multiple grizzlies including one with two cubs, elk with horns, elk without horns, marmots on marmots on marmots (the yellow-bellied kind), Harlequin ducks, mule deer, adult and juvenile eagles, pelicans, birds (so many birds), Uinta ground squirrels, a Ruffed grouse, Sandhill cranes, pronghorn, Big Horn sheep, a coyote, and a nesting osprey couple.

  • Grand Teton National Park

    April 29th – May 1st, 2026

    Books, Bites, and Lakes: My Take on How to Explore Grand Teton National Park

    Amory and I only had three days in GTNP – boo. And we went preseason, so many things were still inaccessible due to snow and Winter closures. But when I reminisce on my favorite moments in the park, I find myself reliving the memories of Amory and I sitting on the crystal clear shores of the many mirror-like lakes we came across. The abundant wildlife we encountered while watching the waves lap the rainbow pebble shores. And the fresh and crisp mountain breeze that blew over the still water onto our faces.

    Three days isn’t enough time to explore all the lakes in the park, but Amory and I did make it to three: Phelps, Jenny, and Swan. All three different. All three stunning. All three worth exploring. Read on to learn more.

    Camping

    Because we went preseason, all the campgrounds in the park expect the Gros Ventre Campground were still closed; however, the Gros Ventre Campground was solid – clean, staffed, and accommodating. Gros Ventre is located in the southeast portion of the park, is the closest campground to Jackson Hole, is $60 a night, and is a stroll away from the Gros Ventre River.

    The campsite also gave me the perfect spot to set up my hammock and crack into two new novels.

    I cannot recommend American Dirt by Jeanine Cummins enough. The emotions I felt reading this one were visceral, and I didn’t know how much I was sobbing until I noticed the tears soaking the pages. The compassion and insight I gained from this fictional thriller were mounting, and if you can walk away from this book untouched and unaffected, you are a psychopath.

    On the other hand, I cannot recommend Strangers: A Memoir of Marriage by Belle Burden. For me, the story fell flat. I felt sympathetic to Burden’s situation, but, as she stated herself multiple times throughout the novel, she is very privileged. Does that make what happened to her any less valid? No. Her experiences any less real? No. I wouldn’t wish it on anyone. But her privilege, which was apparent with every flip of the page, made it far less interesting for me and I think other readers would agree – especially those readers who also lack multimillion dollar trust funds with their name on them.

    Gros Ventre campsite
    All made on an open fire
    Hotdogs and mac n’ cheese *chef’s kiss

    Phelps Lake

    AllTrails: Phelps Lake, Lake Creek, and Woodland Loop

    Located on the Southern end of the Teton Range, this moderate 6.5 mile lake loop is less traversed making it perfect for spotting wildlife. We saw multiple moose and even a cinnamon black bear! Books, bites, insights? If you want to see wildlife, you must hit the trails early. We have been told by rangers that mammals and birds are most active early in the morning and late in the afternoon, and as more people get on the trail, the less animals sightings there are.

    Phelps Lake also has a spur trail into Death Canyon. I’ve heard this is worth exploring; however, it was still covered in snow when Amory and I went.

    Boardwalk on trail
    Moose at trailhead
    Lake Creek overlook
    Phelps Lake

    Jenny Lake

    AllTrails: Jenny Lake Trail

    Centrally located in the park and offering the most iconic view of the namesake Grand Teton, this 7 mile lake loop at the base of the Grand Teton Range is a must. We saw ample marmots and moose while walking along the trail, but due to this destination’s popularity, this trail can become very crowded very quickly, so again, plan to start early if you want to spot wildlife.

    Along the route there are a few must-sees including: Hidden Falls, Inspiration Point, and the breathtaking mountain reflection at the Jenny Lake Overlook.

    Books, bites, insights? Hike the loop counter clockwise for the best views of the Grand Teton Range.

    Hidden Falls
    Massive icicle at Hidden Falls
    Inspiration Point
    Grand Teton Range view along trail
    Reflection of Grand Teton in Jenny Lake at the Jenny Lake Overlook

    Swan Lake

    AllTrails: Swan Lake and Heron Pond Trail

    Located in the Northern Colter Bay Area of the park near the more popular Jackson Lake, this easy 3 mile loop through forest, wetland, and meadows turned out to be one of Amory and I’s favorites. Why? You probably could’ve guessed it: wildlife. Around every bend Amory and I spotted critters out doing their thing. Moose lapping water in the ponds. Eagles and herons flying overhead. Beavers carrying sticks into their dens. We loved this trail! And it was super simple making it the perfect late evening wind-down trail after a long day of exploring.

    Swan Lake

    Scenic Drive

    Wanting to explore the park, but hiking isn’t an option for you or your family? Don’t worry. I can confidently say that you can explore GTNP fully from your car without missing all the best stuff.

    Juvenile Natalie wanted out of the car NOW. Ready to hit the trails. Ready to explore. But 28 year-old-Natalie with less than ideal knees has come to love to those mindless scenic drives through the parks – as a passenger princess of course.

    A/C on. Sunroof open. Noah Kahan’s new album The Great Divide playing in the background. No bugs. No effort. Just beautiful sights for miles and miles and miles.

    And when it comes to scenic drives, Grand Teton National Park takes the cake. Easily offering one of the most stunning scenic drives I’ve had on this trip. And I want to reiterate that easy part. The 42 mile scenic loop at Grand Teton is very easy to drive. No winding, twisting, nausea inducing teeny-tiny narrow roads through mountain passes – rather just an easy cruise through the Eastern flats with the towering Teton Range ever-present in the distance.

    Books, Bites, Insights? For the 42 mile scenic loop, I recommend driving it counterclockwise. Drive in the South entrance, turn right at Moose Junction toward Moran Junction. At Moran Junction turn left toward Jackson Lake Junction. Once at the crossroad, turn left at Jackson Lake Junction onto Teton Park road. Do the optional one way Jenny Lake Scenic Drive for the Jenny Lake Overlook. Finally, complete the loop by driving all the way back to Moose Junction.

    Mapped route of 42 mile scenic drive

    Amory and I still have a long journey ahead of us with many parks to come, but I do wonder if any of the remaining national parks will have what it takes to top Grand Teton’s lakes. I really feel this park may have the most diverse and stunning lakes of all 63. But we will see won’t we readers. And as you know, I will keep you updated.

    Anyway, cold plunge anyone? Xoxo, with love, and until next week.

  • Yosemite National Park

    April 19th – April 23rd, 2026

    Barley Enough to Scratch the Surface: A 5 Day, 4 Night Itinerary in Yosemite National Park

    One of my all time favorites – Yosemite National Park brought Amory and I up to park number 43 of our 63 in 365 journey. Although this was my second visit to the valley, I still have so much to do and see and explore here and will certainly be back.

    But let’s quickly touch on my favorite thing about Yosemite: the feelings that bubble up inside when driving in – romance and adventure perfectly swirled into one. The graceful waterfalls, the intimacy of being snuggly between the canyon’s walls, the take-the-breathe-right-out-of-you views. I love this place, and yet, I have only scratched the surface of all that it has to offer. And I love exploring this place with my person – Amory. Blah, blah, mushy-gushy. I know, I know. But the hopeless romantic in me cannot help it nor will I deny it. Which brings me to our book of this post: Punch Me Up to the Gods by Brian Broome. A memoir and coming-of-age story about romance, sexuality, intimacy, acceptance, trauma, survival, and to put it plainly – about being a queer, black man. The way Broome used both humorous and blunt, raw tones to tell his story captivated me. Readers, you know I love a good memoir, but Broome’s was better than good – it was powerful. Even as an ally, I find myself forgetful of the day to day struggles within the queer communities. And as a white woman, I can’t begin to say I can relate to the day to day struggles of POC. So, reading literature from queer POC keeps me in check – reminding me of my privilege and pushing me to remember: I am my brother’s keeper.

    Long story short: Happy Pride month readers. Pick up some gay books by some gay folks, and let me know about what you read or find or discover in the comments.

    Day 1, April 19th

    Driving In and Dispersed Camping near the Western Entrance

    Our “first day” doesn’t really count as a first day in the park because it only consisted of us driving in from Lassen Volcanic NP (5 hour drive), but I wanted to include this day because of where we stayed – Hardin Flat Road. This road is on National Forest land meaning you can find a pullout and disperse camp. The best part? Free, secluded, and only 10 minutes from the Western entrance.

    When using the Dyrt app, look for spots with lots of reviews. For us, those have been most easily found and most reliable. I can’t stress enough how useful this app has been – especially for finding camping within minutes of park entrances when campsites were booked out.

    Dispersed camping/boondocking: Where can you do it? On most national forests and BLM land. For how much? FREE. But it is tricky for newbies, especially if you’ve never been to where you want to go. Books, bites, insights? Download and pay the $60 yearly fee for the Dyrt – an app that will show you dispersed camping locations near you (We have easily saved over $60 using this app and feel it is well worth the annual fee); however, don’t feel like paying the fee? Ask a park ranger! They know the area best and have guided Amory to some pretty sick spots.

    Day 2, April 20th

    Yosemite Valley, Peak Hike, Checking-In, and Errands

    On day two Amory and I took the Upper Yosemite Falls trail to Eagle Peak – easily my favorite hike and view in Yosemite. This 12 mile out-and-back takes you to the top of Yosemite Falls and is strenuous; however, after summiting the falls, you have a more gentle, gradual incline through alpine meadows up to Eagle Peak. At Eagle Peak, you’re rewarded with vast views of the valley below and Half Dome in all her glory in the backdrop. After our hike, we made our way to the Yosemite Valley Welcome Center for stamps, loaded up on groceries at the Village Store (arguably the best national park general store), and checked into Housekeeping Camp.

    Amory and I wanted to stay in the valley a few days to avoid excessive driving, but didn’t want to pay those intimidating lodge fees, so we opted to stay at the Housekeeping Camp. This popular lodging spot does book out, and I can see why. Housekeeping Camp offers a glamping-esk experience. Coin laundry machines on site, hot showers, a covered space that included a full bed, a bunk bed, multiple outlets, and flip-switch lights; All for $120 a night. A one night hotel room price but in one of the most beautiful locations in America – not bad.

    Northeast view from Eagle Peak
    Southwest view from Eagle Peak
    Upper Yosemite Falls

    Day 3, April 21st

    Yosemite Valley and Valley Strolling

    On day 3 Amory and I woke up to snow. Lots and lots of snow. Attempting to see this as a blessing rather than a disappointment, we opted to stroll the Yosemite Valley Loop trail (7 mile half loop, 15 mile full loop). Would Amory and I of done this if the weather had been picturesque? Readers, you know us, we would’ve went on some wild summit peak hike and wouldn’t of even considered doing this loop; however, I am thankful for how it all played out. Seeing the valley snow-dusted and not from my car window allowed me to relax, rest, and take in all the beautiful sights the valley has to offer: Sentinel Rock, Cathedral Rocks, Bridalveil Fall, El Capitan, Three Brothers, Lower Yosemite Falls. Also, with the weather being less than desirable, there were no crowds. When it started sprinkling on our stroll, we escaped the rain by getting tea and coffee at Degnan’s Kitchen – where the hot water and drip coffee refills are FREE and the Wi-Fi strong.

    Lower Yosemite Falls

    Day 4, April 22nd

    Yosemite’s Hetch Hetchy Area, Waterfall Hikes, and Checking-In

    Day 4 was spent exploring the Northwest corner of Yosemite – Hetch Hetchy. We started at the O’Shaughnessy Dam and hiked the Wapama Falls trail. A moderate 5 mile in-and-out hike along the shoreline of the Hetch Hetchy Reservoir with several water crossings and two beautiful waterfalls along the way. Afterword we bought out all the snacks at the Evergreen Lodge’s general store (8 miles from Wapama Falls trailhead). While driving to our campsite, we passed Carlon Falls, had plenty of daylight left, and figured why not. This 3 mile in-and-out that follows the Tuolumne River and is a bit more strenuous than Wapama Falls, but we only passed one other group while hiking, so it would be perfect for those looking for a quick, secluded hike or swim. After this packed day, we were thankful that our campsite at Hodgdon Meadow Camground ($36 a night) was less than a mile away.

    Carlon Falls
    Hetch Hetchy Reservoir
    Wapama Falls
    Tunnel passageway after crossing the O’Shaughnessy Dam

    Day 5, April 23rd

    Yosemite Valley, A Yosemite Must-Do Hike, and Departing 😦

    For our final day in the park we did a Yosemite-Must: the Mist Trail. The first time we visited Yosemite we only went to the top of Vernal Falls, but this time we wanted to go all the way to the top of Nevada Falls to catch a view of the valley from yet another angle – jaw-dropping as always. Books, bites, insights? This trail is very popular and very crowded (go as early as possible), you will get wet from the ‘mist’ section (bring a poncho or raincoat), and is a steep, strenuous 7 mile trip.

    On our way out of the park, Amory and I were craving BBQ and found a lil hole-in-the-wall gem in Jamestown (2 hours outside Yosemite Valley, 1 hour outside the park’s western entrance) at Fasty’s BBQ Joint. One word: Slapped. Check them out if you’re near.

    Vernal Falls
    Nevada Falls
    Fasty’s BBQ

    Readers, I am already counting the days until I can return to Yosemite. Especially because I have yet to summit the notorious Half Dome. If you have conquered this feat, reach out to me ASAP! I have so many questions. Until next week love bugs. Xoxo.

  • Redwood National and State Parks

    April 15th – 17th, 2026

    Slow. Simple. And Refreshing. Redwoods reignited my drive to be gratefully in the moment of this 63 in 365 journey. Sleeping in your car daily. Not showering for nearly two weeks. Eating only packaged, shelf-stable foods. It can be all-consuming, and the pessimism can begin to be unwavering.

    But the ambiance of Redwoods lends itself to peace. Not overly crowded. Not overly difficult to explore. Simple. Slow. Refreshing. Just what I needed at this midpoint in our 8 month journey. With the mega-giant Yosemite on the horizon, I made an effort to sit in the lupin fields, lay in the hammock, and be childlike, flipping rocks on the trails in search of banana slugs at Redwoods – focusing in on taking deep, long breaths and marveling at all the serenity that surrounded me.

    This park and my time in it will hold a special place in my heart, and I can’t quite put into words why – but as you know readers, I’ll give it a shot lol.

    Books

    The Widow by John Grisham

    5/5 stars

    I stumbled on this novel by complete accident, liked the cover art, did not read any synopsis prior to cracking it open, and hoped for the best. I was not disappointed.

    As cliche as they come, I had heard of John Grisham via my Gen X parents (also avid readers back in their day). This was my first of Grisham’s but easily fell in love, into the rhythm, of his prose. Slow and intentional to start – building the storyline. Urgent and pressing to end – leaving me holding my breath with each turn of the page (or swipe of my Kindle). His writing style effortlessly and perfectly matched the progression of the storyline – when the plot thickened and quickened, his syntax became more staccato.

    All this to say, I really enjoyed this read readers. It has been a while since I looked forward to my “silly little independent reading time”, and this novel broke the dry spell.

    If you also enjoy crime fiction or legal thrillers – think Jodi Picoult but a man’s POV, then I’d say give the novel a try (even if it isn’t BookTok viral). If you’ve read John Grisham novels, which of them did you like/not like? I am interested in adding another of his to my “read” list on Goodreads.

    Bites

    Let’s talk about Amory and I’s favorite dish – pho. Pho is a Vietnamese soup dish of broth, rice noodles, herbs, and meat. My favorite? Tendon or any pork broth based ones. Amory’s? Chicken. This simple, filling, relatively cheap dish has been a go-to for Amory and I since the beginning of our relationship (shout out VN Pho & Deli in Nashville).

    Pho is THE dish that we are constantly on the lookout for, craving, and never say no to. Under the weather? Pho. Exhausted from a hike? Pho. Just want to go out without stressing about allergens and tummy pains? Pho. It truly takes the cake when up against all other dishes and dining experiences.

    If you’ve never had it, try it. Just google it up in your area, look at the reviews, order beef or chicken, keep it simple at first adding sauces and such slowly – and boom, thank me later.

    After three days of exploring Redwoods, we made our way back to San Fransisco, scoped out a hole in the wall Vietnamese place via Google, and had our fill.

    Meatball Pho (which I found is NOT a traditional Vietnamese pho dish but one of my favorites)
    Sights
    • Camping:
      • Elk Praire Campground is located centrally in Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park for $35 a night with hot coin-operated showers – and yes, there were bunches of elk roaming around.
    • Attractions:
      • At Trees of Mystery in Klamath, California ($30 per person) you can ride the Skytrail gondola (a 1/3 mile ride through the forest tree tops with ocean views from the observation deck at the summit), walk the Redwood Canopy trail (aerial netted suspension bridges 50 – 100 feet in the air amongst the giant trees), meander through their Redwood grove and trees pausing to take in unique Redwoods like Cathedral Tree (A group of nine trees growing together as one), and get lost in the Trail of Tall Tales (Paul Bunyon’s story told through chainsaw carved sculptures).
    Redwood Canopy trail
    Redwood Canopy trail
    Skytrail gondola
    Coastal view at the summit of the Skytrail gondola
    Trail of Tall Tales
    • Trails:
      • Fern Canyon Loop: This easy 1.2 mile loop should not be skipped. A narrow 50-foot-deep canyon with abundant ferns lining the canyon’s walls create an otherworldly experience. Books, bites, insights? Fern Canyon was used for several scenes in the movie Jurassic Park 2: Lost Worlds. Nearby, sharing the same parking lot, is Gold Bluffs Beach which is worth a quick walk to.
    Fern Canyon
    Gold Bluffs Beach
    • Trillium Falls Trail: This easy 2.7 mile loop takes you through ancient redwood groves – no banana slug sightings! But, but, but, many dew soaked Trillium flowers line the trail. Books, bites, insights? Don’t pick these flowers. Why? It takes the trillium plant 10 years to produce their first flower.
    Trillium Falls Trail
    Trillium bloom
    • Lady Bird Johnson Grove Trail: This super easy 1.5 mile loop takes you on a stroll through old-growth redwoods. You could skip this trail if you’re doing others in the park – you won’t see anything “new”, but Amory and I enjoyed it as an early morning refresher. Going in the morning meant no people and ample birds.
    • Lyons Ranch Trail: Want to step back in time, take it slow, and see lush fields of lupines? Go on this 3.7 mile out-and-back trail to the historic Lyons Ranch and take in the ample mountain vistas along the way.
    Lyons Ranch vistas
    Lyons Ranch
    Inside Lyons Ranch housestead
    Newspaper I found in the Lyons homestead that had a 1912 date
    Blooming Lupin field on the way to Lyons Ranch
    • Grove of Titans Trail: If you are in the Northern portion of the parks (near Crescent City) check out this 1.5 mile out-and-back. Again, an easy trail through the namesake Redwoods.
    • Castle Rock: View Castle Rock a half mile offshore from the coastline in Crescent City, California. Wide, sandy shores to rugged tide-pool coves. We just parked and walked along. No fancy, downloaded AllTrails map needed.
    Cove off Crescent Beach
    Coastline view
    Blooming coastal Ice Plant succulents

    Kisses, bear hugs, and until next week readers. Xoxo.

  • Pinnacles National Park

    April 2nd – 3rd, 2026

    Condors, Caves, and California Peaks, Oh My: A Weekend Away in Pinnacles National Park

    Pinnacles National Park holds a soft spot in my heart for a good reason; It is full of so many epic things (peep the title of this post) yet it really isn’t all that big (only 42 square miles) – making it the perfect park for a weekend getaway.

    After Pinnacles NP, we flew back to Nashville where I peeped this adorable Delta bear hard at work
    Books

    Half His Age by Jennette McCurdy

    3/5 stars

    My fascination with Jennette McCurdy started as everyone else’s did with her iconic role on the hit TV show I-Carly, but within the last decade she has dialed in on her penmanship – entering her novelist era, and I have been here for it since day one.

    I read her memoir I’m Glad My Mom Died on my 14 hour international flight to Nepal. I loved it. Her raw, unapologetic voice. I found myself over and over again thinking, “I can’t believe that happened to her,” but also, “OMG. Me too.” Gripping. Shocking. Knee jerking. As life tends to be, McCurdy’s writing follows and doesn’t seem to shy away from her authentic take on life and all its trauma and bullshit.

    When I first read she would be publishing a fictional novel, I fangirled. I put myself on an email update list and immediately preordered the book. I listed to her talk about it on all the podcasts and thought, “This novel will be so relatable.” Why? Because (unfortunately), as many of us were, I was preyed on by multiple older, slimmer men from a very young age, including my teachers – similarly to how the main character Waldo is throughout the novel. And because these men had the upper hand in the power dynamic and because I was a susceptible kid searching for belonging, I really thought that their perversity was okay – even desired it and patted myself on the back for it. Bleh! Gag a maggot.

    And while Half His Age directly explores these power dynamics I’m referencing above, it had a completely different plot and sparked entirely different internal dialogues in me than I had imagined, even after intently listening to all the podcasts and interviews with McCurdy. So much so, I wondered if the interviewees had even read the book themselves or just created their interview question sets based on the synopsis and not what actually happens in the novel. What do I mean? You really just have to pick the novel up and see for yourself. And if you do, let’s talk afterward. I am dying to have an in-depth, unapologetic conversation with someone about this book.

    Stay with me and hear me out readers, I am almost done with this TED Talk – I enjoyed the novel, but truthfully, I enjoyed her memoir more. I don’t think Half His Age belongs on a “You Must Read This Book Now” list, but it was a great debut novel for McCurdy, and I will be here idly waiting for another.

    Bites

    Pinnacles National Park is pretty secluded. Which is great and grand, but if you don’t plan well, you may end up hungry or, as my grandpa would say, shit out of luck. Seriously. There isn’t a cute lil town next door like Zion has and the camp store isn’t its own grocery warehouse with all the things like in Yosemite. So, books, bites, insights? You’ve been warned. Stock up on groceries before driving out.

    On a different note, Pinnacles offers some of the most picnicky-picnic vibes of all the parks I’ve been to. Lots of shade. Lots of clean picnic tables with beautiful views. Lots of stop and snack it up places along all the trails. Also, who doesn’t love a classic deli or pb&j sandwich while camping/hiking?

    Nothing. NOTHING. Hits better than a sandwich in the woods, on a peak, or along a riverbed with family and friends. So much childhood nostalgia flashes through my mind when taking that first mouthwatering bite into the fluffy white Wonder bread of a quickly slapped together sandwich after a hard day of exploring – and I think we can all relate.

    Our picnic fuel: classic deli meat sandwiches one day and simple tuna out the can with avocado the next.

    Sights

    CAMPSITE

    Pinnacles Campground is the only campground in the park and after extensive research, one of the few campgrounds I could find remotely near the park. Snagging a spot may take planning but this was by far one of my #fav campsites. The sites are more expensive than most at $60 a night but well worth it. Your site includes access to showers, a pool, ample dumpsters and potable water, and a clean, private site.

    Water pump at sight – the best
    Our little private cove at the Pinnacles Campground

    HIKES

    High Peaks and Balconies Cave Loop (8.5 mile loop): This trail takes you amongst all the iconic highs and lows of the park. It starts with a gentle stroll through a meadow following a creek on the Old Pinnacle Trail. Next, you get to rock scramble through the Balconies Cave – bring a flashlight! After spelunking, the trail begins to wind upward through the Juniper Canyon, my personal favorite portion because you can see the namesake rock spires (pinnacles) off in the distance the entire time. Last, you’ll make your way atop the High Peaks where you can peer out onto the sweeping California-esk valley below. To finish out this trek, you’ll effortlessly descend on the Blue Oak Trail.

    Old Pinnacle Trail
    Old Pinnacle Trail
    Desert Cottontail near West Fork Chalone Creek
    Balconies Cave Trail
    Juniper Canyon
    Juniper Canyon
    Blue Oak Trail

    Condor Gulch Trail to High Peaks Trail Loop (5.4 loop): Before you ask – yes, we went up to the High Peaks twice, but we went two different ways and had two entirely different experiences with completely different sights and views each way. This route first takes you through Bear Gulch Cave which is such a treat. The entire cave is about half a mile long and so easy and fun to navigate through. The Bear Gulch Creek runs through the cave with accompanying cave waterfalls! Once through the cave, you’ll arrive at Bear Gulch Reservoir. The perfect place to stop and have a snack. After resting you’ll trek the thrilling “Steep and Narrow” portion of the trail, gain a good bit of elevation, and use stairs carved into rock to get to the peaks. After this section, be on the lookout for the notorious California Condors! We spotted so many while descending through Condor Gulch (who could’ve guessed). Books, bites, insights? Do your research prior to setting off to be able to tell the difference in a Turkey Vulture and a California Condor – we used their underwing patterns.

    Bear Gulch Cave Trail
    Bear Gulch Cave Trail
    Bear Gulch Reservoir
    “Steep and Narrow” portion of the High Peaks Trail
    Trail and bridge along the “Steep and Narrow” portion of the High Peaks Trail
    Peak view on High Peaks Trail (Day 2)
    Peak view on High Peaks Trail (Day 1)
    Condor spotted in Condor Gulch

    If you didn’t notice readers, I am nearly a week or more late on this post – eek.

    I have been busy. Busy living. Busy exploring. Busy being. Initially, I was very hard on myself for not getting this post posted in time, but then I thought, “Why would I be mean to myself for living a life?” Seriously. Why are we so mean to ourselves in general? Even in a joking manner with friends (ie saying, “Oh, you know me – so dumb and so forgetful lol”). I truly am beginning to believe our subconscious can’t tell the difference and am beginning to attempt to both notice and delete this type of dialogue from my life.

    And trust me. I am very hard on myself. I type all of this knowing that it is easier said than done. But readers: damn does it feel good to give myself grace, take a back seat on the shame train, breathe, and realize that I am still just as on-it and amazing even if I didn’t check all the things off my never ending to-do list.

    So readers, let’s promise each other something. For the next day, week, or whatever, let’s try to rewrite our self criticism. Let’s challenge our inner critic. When it arises, say aloud – “Nope. That isn’t true. There goes my self-critic again.” Let’s replace harshness with compassion.

    Let me know how it goes in the comments or DM me. I would scream in joy if you did. And in the meantime, enjoy all the wildflowers I spotted during my weekend away in Pinnacles National Park. Xoxo, take care.

    Bush Poppy
    California Buckwheat
    California Buckwheat
    Ithuriel’s Spear and Sticky Monkeyflower
    Sticky Monkeyflower
    Douglas’ Spineflower
    Deerweed
    Seaside Woolly Sunflower
    Woolly Indian Paintbrush
    Woolly Bluecurls
    Cobweb Thistle
    Chaparral Clematis 
    Smooth Mule’s Ears
    Silverpuffs

  • Sequoia & Kings Canyon National Parks

    March 29th – April 1st, 2026

    Amory captured it perfectly when describing Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks: You can’t judge from a distance. You need to be in and amongst the trees to understand. Oddly, this same phrase aligned with the big idea of this week’s novel: friendship.

    Outside looking in, we can all be quick to judge. It is only human nature to quickly assess, make predictions on, and compartmentalize both people and situations. But reality isn’t based in that. Buddhism touches on this idea as well – the idea of nonjudgemental awareness. It is not natural to not judge. We have to make a conscious effort to not do so. And it seems we are constantly judging everyone and everything, our closest allies and our highest blessings. But you can’t judge, especially not from a distance – and doing so only creates false narratives.

    In My Friends, Fredrik Backman weaves a tale riddled in grief and love by unfolding a story of the ever so familiar waxing and waning of friendships. How friends can be inseparable yet with time grow so distant. As a young adult, I have noticed big changes in the friendships I carry. Those once inseparable friendships have gathered dust (some being shelved entirely), and I have distanced myself from friends due to my outward judgement of their life choices. Friends I have cherished for many years. Some who have been key players in shaping me into who I am today. And while I am not encouraging you to engage with people who cause more burdens than triumphs, I am encouraging you to be gentle on those around you. Seek nonjudgemental awareness. Allow your friends to grow and change and be – just as Fish, Ali, Joar, The Artist, Ted, and Louisa do throughout My Friends. Allow space between you to grow if needed, but allow yourself to slip into their embrace when offered.

    As for the parks, Sequoia and Kings Canyon have such appeal from a distance. Giant trees. Mountain vistas. Big Foot. But to truly be enveloped in the wonder that these parks offer, you must strike out onto one of the many accessible (parks perfect for first time hiking kiddos IMO) trails offered by the parks. Winding through the forests and meadows. Standing underneath a towering 300 foot Sequoia. Smelling that ever so familiar “Christmas smell” from a recently fell tree.

    Thinking of visiting these two parks soon to judge them for yourself? Keep reading for a layout on what I did, where I stayed, and what I ate while exploring these sister parks: Sequoia and Kings Canyon.

    Books

    My Friends, Fredrik Backman

    4/5 stars

    A co-worker suggested this book to me last year. We were chatting about novels that really made us feel. Made us cry those big girl tears. Gave us that blank 1,000-yard stare at the wall after a heavy chapter type-books. And while My Friends didn’t hit me as hard as it hit her, it was powerful. Many times I had to put the book down because of how empathetic I was of the characters. I felt their sorrow, their pain, their grief, their heartache. Quickly summarizing the majority of this book; It’s depressing. It invokes real, raw feelings. Some readers may be put off by these types of novels. Wanting to avoid uneasy feelings in our favorite pastime hobby. I get it; however, occasionally, I crave the visceral. Do I want every book I read to be heavy? No. But from time to time, I want to feel those feels – and My Friends helps readers do just that. And it is worth noting that the author, Backman, has a unique, comical way of making you feel.

    Like I said in the introduction of this post, this book is ultimately about friendship. About how our friendships our vital to who we are (and who we aren’t). And yes, it’s depressing, but after finishing the last chapter, I closed the book smiling.

    Bites

    A living in your car classics: an avocado smashed on a rice cake with red chili pepper flakes + a grapefruit with a view

    • After a day of hiking, Amory and I stopped in the centrally located Lodgepole Visitor Center to snack, use their restrooms, and take advantage of their Wi-Fi.
    Avocado rice cake
    Grapefruit atop Mora Rock

    A fan favorite: Belgium waffles (with added banana and PB) and hot coffee complimentary at Cyndi’s Snowline Lodge

    • Just outside Kings Canyon, Cyndi was a great Hipcamp host offering words of wisdom, hot coffee, and crispy waffles to-go every morning at sunrise.
    Day 1 waffle at Snowline Lodge: Plain Jane style
    Day 2 waffle: smothered and covered

    A local gem just outside the park with keto and gluten-free options: a cran-almond scone, an oatmilk hot latte, and the meat lover bagel at Clingans Junction

    • Amory and I are always in need of a cafe sit and work session. Clingans is a 30 minute drive from the Kings Canyon Visitor Center, has plenty of indoor and outdoor seating, and, the best part, has high quality Wi-Fi with a plethora of outlets scattered throughout the cafe. Oh! Their food and coffee was pretty damn good too.
    Clingans Junction has free wifi and both indoor and patio seating
    Meat lover bagel at Clingans Junction
    Cran-almond scone
    Sights

    Accommodations:

    • Horse Creek Campground (near Sequoia NP): 1 night, originally 2 but plans changed, not well maintained (nowhere to be found hosts, bathrooms/showers out of order, lots of trash) but great location and views
    • Azalea Campground (in Kings Canyon NP): 1 night, in the park with abundant trails nearby
    • Cyndi’s Snowline Lodge (near Kings Canyon NP): 2 nights, wonderful hosts, easy/cozy, just outside park, free coffee and waffles, booked on Hipcamp
    Horse Creek Campground outside Sequoia
    Horse Creek Campground outside Sequoia
    Azalea Campground inside Kings Canyon
    Cyndi’s Snowline Lodge outside of Kings Canyon

    Sequoia Hikes:

    • Moro Rock via Alta, Bear Hill, and Moro Rock Trail Loop (4.9 mile loop): Auto Log, giant trees, mountain vistas, meadow stroll
    • Tokopah Falls Trail (4 mile in-and-out): beautiful waterfall, lots of large, flat rocks to sit on at viewpoint
    • Sherman Tree, Congress, Trail of the Sequoias, and Tharp’s Log Loop (7 mile loop): World’s largest tree, parts of trail are paved, less people once you began to head toward Tharp’s Log offering a more private, secluded feel in the park
    • Little Baldy Trail (3.5 mile in-and-out): short trail with great views
    Trail amongst the giant trees
    Me atop Auto Log
    Booker T. Washington Tree
    The famed General Sharman Tree Trail
    Giant hollow tree
    Tharp’s Log
    Moro Rock Trail
    Moro Rock Trail
    View from Moro Rock
    Amongst the clouds on the Little Baldy Trail
    Tokopah Falls
    Tokopah Falls Trail

    Kings Canyon Hikes:

    • General Grant Trail (0.5 mile loop): walkable from Azalea campground, interactive trail with options to walk through fallen trunks
    • Buena Vista Trail (2 mile in-and-out): easy, short trail with a great viewpoint
    • Ella Falls Loop (6 mile loop): multi-level waterfall, longer hike but one of the better options in Kings Canyon IMO, option to view other waterfalls along the way
    • Big Stump Loop (2 mile loop): easy trail through the forest, option to stand in a big Sequoia stump
    • Hume Lake Loop (3 miles): picnicking option, easy stroll around lake
    Hume Lake Trail
    Hume Lake
    Giant trunk you can walk through on the General Grant Trail
    General Grant Tree
    Buena Vista Peak
    View from Buena Vista
    Me standing inside the big stump on the Big Stump Loop

    Four months into this journey readers. Point blank: I am tired. Constantly being put into new situations, many uncomfortable; however, when unease arises, I will continue to bring myself to the mantra of this post: Cast aside judgement. Be in and amongst the situation. Traveling America with the love of my life experiencing all the things, reading all the books, eating all the bites, seeing all the sights – seriously, how could I ever complain, no matter how tired or uncomfortable I feel. Until next week. Xoxo.

    The vistas while driving back to camp at sunset in Sequoia NP

  • Grand Canyon National Park

    March 25th – 27th, 2026

    Books, Bites, Insights: How to Hike Rim to River and Back in One Day

    Hello friends and readers!

    For this week’s post I wanted to focus on an epic endeavor that Amory and I recently undertook: Hiking down into the Grand Canyon and back in one day. This trek is commonly coined as going “rim to river.” We did the trek via the South Kaibab trail (using South Kaibab to both descend and ascend) because of the closure with the Silver Bridge’s construction (making using the Bright Angel trail to do a “loop” impossible).

    I would be lying if I didn’t mentioned that taking on this trek was nerve racking. Heat. Water. Mileage. Elevation. Sun. All the things ran through my mind. I had a lot of self-doubt. Would I be able to physically do the 15 miles? Was I capable of gaining 5,000 feet elevation in day? But as you could’ve guessed – yes and yes. Granted Amory and I have done nothing but hike and walk daily for the last four months. So let me highlight that in no way is this trek easy, and it should not be undertaken lightly. But it can be done. Especially with the right planning and steps (literally). So, here are my books, bites, insights and, if you’ve done this trek, I would love if you added your tips in the comments below.

    Map of South Kaibab Trail with labeled check-points for reference

    My Tips and Tricks (In Chronological Order)

    1. Eat a big dinner the night before. I always opt for a fat, juicy hamburger with all the things. Your body will need fuel.
    2. Go to bed early and get a goodnight’s sleep. Duh.
    3. Set an alarm for 4:30 am, don’t hit snooze, and call the Xanterra Taxi Service immediately. We stayed at Mather Campground In GCNP. If you aren’t staying in the park, adjust your time to include drive time. There is no public parking at the South Kaibab trailhead, so you have to either wait for the shuttle (which doesn’t start until 6) or take the taxi service.
    4. Get dressed, pack your bag, put on sunscreen, and start drinking water. I wore shorts, a light button up shirt, and a tank-top. I was a bit cold when we first started, but as the day warmed up, my attire choices were perf. As far as your bag goes, don’t bring unnecessary junk. More stuff = more weight. No thanks. I had my snacks (pictured in my photo dump), sunglasses, a bandana, a hat, my headlamp, trekking poles, sunscreen, water, and toilet paper. That’s it. Did I mention to start drinking water? Additionally, be sure you know where water stations are along your chosen route and if they are operating before starting your descent. On South Kaibab, there is no water stations along the way. Only at the bottom at the Phantom Ranch canteen. So, what does this mean for you? Be sure you have enough canisters to hold your water. I trekked down with 3 liters (using a 1.5 liter water bladder and a 1.5 liter plastic bottle) and filled up all three before ascending.
    5. Taxi to trailhead. The taxi service (via Xanterra, phone #928-638-2631) was $15 plus a tip (tip optional). The Grand Canyon’s public shuttle doesn’t start running until 6, and Amory and I wanted to get a head start and beat the heat (and the crowds). Also, seeing the sunrise while in the Grand Canyon was a yes, please for us. Anyway, the taxi service was perfect. Professional. Prompt. Easy. Highly reccomend. They do not do reservations, so you simply call about 30 minutes before you want to be picked up, give them your pickup location (which can be anywhere in the park), and boom. They come get you. The taxi service is 24/7, but is also first come, first serve, so be sure to call them 30 minutes or more in advance.
    6. Begin the descent. Don’t overthink it. Just go! If you start early, don’t forget your headlamp. It’s dark. And use trekking poles for your entire descent. Trust me. Your knees will thank me later.
    7. Eat a light breakfast and start drinking electrolytes. I ate a banana (fast carbs = fast energy, light = easy to digest, you won’t feel bogged down later) and poured a liquid IV (screw the sugar-free, get the all sugar included ones seriously) into my water bladder at Skeleton Point, roughly 3 miles into the descent.
    8. Stop and rest when needed. Take in the views. Pee when you get to restrooms. Continually sip on your electrolyte water on the way down – even if you feel like you don’t need to. Refer to my time table in my photo dump if you’re curious about how I paced my trek, but keep in mind, I don’t typically lallygag when hiking, and, after hiking every day for four months, I am in pretty good hiking shape. So, don’t be scared to take it slow or rest. Listen to your body.
    9. Arrive at Phantom Ranch and check out the canteen. Go inside. Buy a $6 lemonade (its a rite of passage), eat all the sugar snacks (I had a Boba Bar smothered in honey, a whole bag of beef jerky, rice puffs, Siete Cookies, and Bolt Energy Chews. All quick carbs, light, and easy on my stomach. Some say the sugar will give you a crash, but that hasn’t been my experience. In fact, I’ve had the opposite experience.), go to the bathroom, rinse off your face, make conversation with other hikers, and send a postcard (postcards will get a “mailed by mule” stamp if left in the PO Box inside the canteen). And duh, drink plenty of water and fill up right before you leave.
    10. Go down to the river and soak your shirt. By far this is my #1 tip. Not only was it refreshing in the moment, but I tied my shirt around my neck on the ascent and it kept me cool the entire time.
    11. Start the ascent. 5,000 feet elevation gain, here you come. One foot in front of the other. Because there isn’t a lot of shade on the trail, you want to start your ascent by 10 am (or earlier if you hike at a slower pace) or wait until 3 pm. This will help to avoid the peak heat times. Keep in mind we did this trek in late March when temperatures are more, for a lack of better words, meek and mild; however, it was still nearly 95 degrees inside the canyon during our trek.
    12. At The Tip-off, there is a shade tent. Rest. Re-up your electrolytes. Snack if you want – I had a Honey Stinger Energy Waffle while watching Amory do magic for other resting, snacking hikers. We stayed here for roughly 45 minutes before continuing out ascent.
    13. As you ascend, set goals but break when needed. I told myself to keep on ascending until each check point (ie The Tip-off, Skeleton Point, Cedar Ridge). This helped me stay on track and knock down the milage, even when all I wanted to do was stop. At each check point I snacked lightly. Eating my beloved Aloha Protein Bar underneath the shade of a juniper tree at Cedar Ridge.
    14. Before you know it, you’ll see those steep switchbacks to the top commonly called “the chimney” and that is your victory lap my friend. Go, go, go. Once back at the trailhead, wait for the shuttle, refill your waters, and pat yourself on the back. You’re a badass.

    If you’re thinking of doing the R2River hike, but doubting yourself: don’t. All it takes is good research (which you’re doing if you’re reading this), planning, and determination. It is daunting, but doable. REPEAT but louder for those in the back. Daunting, but DOABLE. I was nervous. And look, here I am, enthusiastic and now longing to go back and do the Rim to Rim hike. Especially now that the North Rim has reopened. March 2027? Whose with me?

    Sunrise near Cedar Ridge (1.5 miles in)
    Black Suspension Bridge over the Colorado River near Phantom Ranch
    Celebratory picture at the bottom of the Grand Canyon

    Reader, I believe in you, and I would love to hear from you. Did you attempt this hike? Or any down to the river hike at the Grand Canyon? What was it like? Any tips, tricks, insights? Did you take the Bright Angel Trail? If so, don’t gatekeep. Tell all below – no-one has ever commented on my posts, and I would be HONORED if you were the first! Until next week, loves. Xoxo.

  • Colorado’s Big Four

    March 16th – March 24th, 2026

    Variety is the Spice of Life: One State, Four Worlds

    Diverse: The word that comes to the forefront of my mind when trying to capture Colorado’s four national parks. Alpine peaks and towering sand dunes; Archeological sites and river-cut gorges. Looking to take a roadtrip with a wide-range of experiences and sights? Then take John Denver’s advice and head to Colorado.

    When planning a trip to Colorado’s big four don’t forget to take the season into consideration. Amory and I went in late Winter, early Spring. Because of this, parts of the Rockies were blanketed in snow; the Great Sand Dunes’ temperatures were meek and mild; Mesa Verde wasn’t offering ranger-led tours; And most of the Black Canyon was unaccessible.

    As I typed all of the above – it begged the question: Were the parks even worth visiting in March? The answer: yes. Even in late Winter, there is lots to do and see. And the best part? Minimal crowds. Books, Bites, Insights? Do your research. Map out your musts for each park regardless of season. And go from there. If a late Winter roadtrip doesn’t lend itself to check off your must-do boxes, plan to go another time of year. No biggie.

    As my sister says, “Point being”: Two of the big four, I will plan to revisit in the future. The other two, I don’t. Read on beloved reader to discover which are which and why.

    Rocky Mountain National Park

    4 days, March 16th – March 19th

    My first time in RMNP was January 2025 with Amory, and I am not shy to say, I will visit this park again and again. Why? Because I love it. RMNP, as I tell Amory, “matches my vibe.” And the neighboring town, Estes Park, is the cherry on top with so many shops and cafes to explore.

    For starters, revisiting RMNP is a must for me because I have yet to drive along the highest (nearly 13,000 feet in elevation) continuous paved road in the US – Trail Ridge road. Both times that I’ve visited RMNP, the road has been closed at the Many Parks curve. The road typically closes mid-October and opens late May. As I said in the introduction of this post, you have to decide on your non-negotiables and then plan your visit accordingly. But don’t let road closures steer you away from a Winter visit to RMNP – there is still so much to do and see, and visiting RMNP while it is still snow covered is magical and one-of-a-kind.

    Some of that RMNP Winter visit magic will include: frozen alpine lakes, snowy peaks, and horned elk. (Did you know elk lose their antlers in Spring? I didn’t until my last visit!) Additionally, in Winter and in early Spring, there are no crowds, traffic is minimal, and Airbnbs have cheaper rates.

    Because of the cheaper rates, Amory and I booked an Airbnb stay at the Ponderosa Lodge – which, while I love staying in Tata, having a shower and bed at our disposal – so nice, chef’s kiss. Plus, it was Amory’s birthday week, so ya know – treat yourself.

    Books, Bites, Insights? Beginning on May 22, 2026, through October 12, timed entry reservations will be required to enter Rocky Mountain National Park between the hours of 9 a.m. to 2 p.m.

    • Day 1: easy hikes, checking-in, and sight seeing
      • Drove into Estes Park, checked into our Airbnb at Ponderosa Lodge (5 minutes from Fall River Visitor Center), hiked the Alluvial Fan (0.5 mile out-and-back), hiked the Hidden Valley Nature Trail (0.5 mile loop), drove down Bear Lake Road (10 mile scenic paved road), hiked the Sprague Lake Trail (1 mile loop), attempted to hike the Bear Lake Trail (1 mile loop, the lake was frozen and the trail was covered in snow drift)
    • Day 2: easy hike
      • hiked the Cub Lake Loop (6 mile loop)
    • Day 3: moderate to strenuous hike
      • hiked the Twin Sisters Peak Trail (7.5 mile out-and-back with 2,500 elevation gain, 30 minute drive from Fall River Visitor Center)
    • Day 4: strenuous hike and yummy bites
      • stood in line at Cinnamon’s Bakery to snag one of their legendary rolls (5 minutes from Fall River Visitor Center), hiked to Chasm Lake (8.5 mile out-and-back with 2,600 elevation gain)
    Airbnb at Ponderosa Lodge
    Alluvial Fan
    Sprague Lake
    Sprague Lake, partially frozen
    Bear Lake signage
    Snow covered trail at Bear Lake
    Cub Lake signage
    Cub Lake view point
    Cub Lake views
    Twin Sisters signage
    Twin Sisters Peak
    Twin Sisters views
    Twin Sisters trail
    Chasm Lake signage
    Chasm Lake trail
    Snow covered Chasm Lake trail
    Lake Chasm, completely frozen
    Elk sighting
    Even at opening, the line at Cinnamon’s is out the door
    Classic roll, no frosting

    Great Sand Dunes National Park

    2 days, March 20th – 21st

    Truth be told, I would’ve felt satisfied with just one day in GSDNP park. Why? Because, IMO, while the park is breathtaking and otherworldly, if you’ve done one dune trail, you’ve done them all. But I am glad we had two days to fully explore the park.

    Because of Winter road closures, there were very inviting alpine hikes that we were not able to access, so my stance that I won’t revisit GSDNP could be swayed; however, I really don’t see myself making the drive back out to the park just for its alpine hikes. I’ve seen and done all the things I wanted to do there – I got my fill. Except for one major thing: There are no sled rentals inside the park, and I didn’t know this. Unfortunately, we were not able to sled the dunes. Ah! I know. I know. Books, Bites, Insights? Don’t be like us. Do your research. Rent a sled outside of the park or bring your own.

    This park did offer one experience that Amory and I had been wanting to do in Tata: Off-roading. Medano Pass is a dirt path that is only accessible to 4WD vehicles. It was fun to get a lil dirt and sand under Tata’s wheels, and by doing so, we were able to get to more secluded picnicking spots.

    • Day 1: namesake hike and checking-in
      • Drove into the park (5 hours from Rockies), hiked the High Dunes Loop (3 mile loop, short but not easy – hiking in the sand is no joke), checked-in to the Alamosa KOA
    • Day 2: easy hikes, off-roading, and picnicking
      • hiked the Zapata Falls Trail (1 mile out-and-back), hiked the Dunes Overlook Trail (2.8 mile out-and-back), off-roaded on Medano Pass, picnicked at the Sand Pit, explored Castle Creek
    High Dunes Trail
    High Dunes Trail
    View at the peak of the High Dunes Trail
    Amory at the top of High Dune after I ran down
    Alamosa KOA
    Showers at the KOA
    Breakfast at camp
    Zapata Falls signage
    Zapata Falls Trail
    Frozen creek that we walked on to reach Zapata Falls
    Zapata Falls frozen
    Mule deer
    View from Dunes Overlook Trail
    View from Dunes Overlook Trail
    Picnic and crossword at the Sandpit

    Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park

    1 day, March 22nd

    Books, Bites, Insights? Wait to visit this park. Black Canyon of the Gunnison needs time. Because of recent fires that devastated the South Rim in 2025 and because of seasonal Winter closures, there wasn’t much for us to do when we visited. 95% of the park was completely inaccessible. We did our research prior to visiting, so we knew this would be the case. But even after research, Amory and I stared down into the canyon with tears in our eyes, disappointed. We know this park has so much to offer. The little tidbit of the park that we were able to explore ensured in our minds that we will revisit Black Canyon of the Gunnison – but as I mentioned above, in due time.

    • Day 1: easy hikes and overlooks
      • Drove into the park (3.5 hours), stopped at the Tomichi Point Overlook, hiked the Oak flat, Uplands, and Rim Rock Nature Trail (3 mile loop), took in views of the canyon at the Gunnison Point Overlook, walked through and explored the small South Rim Visitor Center, checked into our Hipcamp in Montrose
    Tomichi Point Overlook
    Gunnison Point Overlook
    Uplands Trail
    Vista on Oakflat Trail
    Hipcamp in Montrose – titled “Coworking Space and Mountain Views” on Hipcamp app

    Mesa Verde National Park

    2 days, March 23rd – March 24th

    Delightful for both history-buffs and nature enthusiasts: Mesa Verde NP was the perfect park to end to our Colorado Big Four roadtrip. By this point in this post you could’ve guessed: there were seasonal Winter closures. No ranger-led tours (meaning we couldn’t go into the famous cliff dwellings) and the Wetherill Mesa road was closed. But after spending two days learning all about the Ancestral Puebloans and soaking in the landscape of this famous World Heritage Site, I was very satisfied with our visit and wouldn’t revisit.

    • Day 1: sight-seeing, short hikes, and checking-in
      • Made a quick stop on our way to the park at the Four Corners Monument ($10 per person), drove into park (3.5 hours), stopped by the Visitor and Research Center for our passport stamps, hiked Point Lookout Trail (2 mile out-and-back), made it to the highest point in the park via the Park Point Fire Lookout Trail (0.5 mile out-and-back), checked into our Hipcamp in Cortez, watched the sun set over Totten Lake
    • Day 2: town things in the neighboring town of Manco, scenic drives with lots of pullouts, and moderate hikes
      • Stockpiled organic, local snacks from Zuma Natural Foods, had a hot breakfast at Moondog Cafe and Bakery, enjoyed coffee on the patio at Fahrenheit Coffee Roasters, drove down Mesa Top Loop Road (5 mile loop), drove down Cliff Palace Loop (6 mile) and hiked the Soda Canyon Overlook Trail (1.2 in-and-out), did a cliff and ridge hike along the Petroglyph Point Trail (2.5 loop), strolled the gentle paths at the Far View Sites
    Four Corners Monument
    Point Lookout Trail
    Point Lookout Trail
    Fire Lookout Trail with San Juan mountain views in the distance
    Totten Lake at sunset
    Zuma Natural Foods
    In-house made Chia Seed Bites from Zuma
    Breakfast at Moondog Cafe and Bakery

    Patio seating at Fahrenheit Coffee Roasters
    Cliff Palace
    Pit Houses on Mesa Top Loop
    Views atop the Petroglyph Point Trail
    Atop the ridge on the Petroglyph Point Trail
    Petroglyph Point Trail
    Petroglyph on Petroglyph Point Trail

    Oh, and before you go, lets talk about Freida McFadden

    In the title of this post, I quoted the old saying, “Variety is the spice of life.” But I wasn’t just referring to the parks.

    Freida McFadden books, while all under the umbrella of psychological thrillers, are as diverse as the Colorado Big Four. I’ve read more than a handful of her novels – and of those I have read many aloud to Amory. He loves them too! When losing yourself in her twist-filled, jaw dropping plots, nothing is better than play pretending detectives and trying to predict the endings – although we are never right. While her bestseller The Housemaid is at the top of everyone’s must-read list, my favorite McFadden tale is The Boyfriend; however, no matter which McFadden book you pick up first, you will not be disappointed. Just be sure to note all those little details and connections. Trust me. They’ll add up.

    Xoxo. Kisses, hugs. Sorry this post was a day late. Forgive me. Thanks for always doing all the things you do – especially just existing. But also for using time out of your life to read my jabberings. Take care readers. Until next week.

  • Carlsbad, New Mexico

    March 13th – March 15th, 2026

    Two for One: A Weekend in Carlsbad, New Mexico

    Guadalupe Mountains National Park and Carlsbad Caverns National Park are only 30 minutes from one another and are complementary national parks making for the perf weekend getaway. Because neither of the parks are expansive nor difficult to traverse, you can get the most out of both in just 3 days.

    Day 1, Friday

    • Drive toward Guadalupe Mountains NP via US-180. Books, Bites, Insights? Make a pit stop before entering the park at the Pine Spring Safety Rest Area if needed.
    • Stop by the Guadalupe Mountains Visitor Center to snag locally made Taos Bakes and to stamp your national park passport.
    • Without having to move your car, walk to and hike the Devil’s Hall Trail (4 mile out-and-back through a scenic canyon). This trail required a good bit of rock scrambling over boulders and was difficult to follow at points. “Just follow the canyon,” they said – easier said than done lol. As always, use AllTrails. Books, Bites, Insights? I almost stopped after scrambling up the “Hiker’s Staircase,” ignorantly thinking that I was at the end of the trail; however, I wasn’t. Keep going until you get to the signage pictured below. If you stop early, you will miss out on the geological, namesake ‘hall’-like formation.
    • Take rest at Chose Campground, only 22 minutes North of Guadalupe Mountains NP. This large gravel lot is perfect for boon-docking, is completely free, and is easily found and routable to – no bathrooms, shade, or water but there are dumpsters.
    The Hiker’s Staircase on the Devil’s Hall Trail
    View of Guadalupe Mountains from the Devil’s Hall Trail
    Signage at the end of the Devil’s Hall Trail
    Tata set up at the Chosa Campground
    Signage for Chose Campground off of US 180

    Day 2, Saturday

    • Rise early for a sunrise and early start on the Guadalupe Peak Trail (8.5 mile out-and-back). Guadalupe Peak is the highest natural point in Texas – nearly 9,000 feet above sea level. This hike is very popular which is why I would recommend starting early, beating the crowds. The first three miles of the trail are very steep and challenging. But the views at the top are epic and vast.
    • Drive back to camp, cook dinner, kick your feet up, and relax. You’ll be tired – trust me.
    Sunrise over the Chihuahuan Desert from two miles into the Guadalupe Peak Trail
    Clift side path on the Guadalupe Peak Trail
    View from Guadalupe Peak
    Guadalupe Peak signage

    Day 3, Sunday

    • Drive to Carlsbad Caverns Visitor Center and Museum, only 20 minutes from the Chosa Campground.
    • Go on the Self-Guided Tour of the Natural Entrance and Big Room Cavern (3 miles round trip, $15 per person). This massive cave and geological phenomenon is very accessible, with the option to take an elevator straight to the Big Room rather than hike in through the Natural Entrance. The cave formations are numerous, awe-inspiring, and mesmerizing; peaking my curiosity with every turn.

    Books, Bites, Insights? Make reservations in advance for the cave tour. The park does offer a handful of first come, first serve tickets, but, be warned, Amory and I drove into Carlsbad Caverns National Park an hour before the visitor center opened and the line was already very long.

    Natural Entrance to caverns
    Views along the Big Room Trail

    Xoxo, thanks for tagging along reader. Stay curious and, if possible, take a weekend for yourself. Do something new. Learn something new. And then tell me about it. I’d love to catch up – even if it isn’t travel or cave related.

  • Petrified Forest National Park

    March 11th, 2026

    A One-Hit Wonder: How to Make the Most of Petrified Forest National Park in One Day

    A realist. I pride myself in being one when appropriate.

    Saying that Petrified Forest National Park is a one day affair, IMO, isn’t a bad thing. The park is beautiful and unique, but, to be blunt, it is small and has an extremely simple layout. There are no long, windy drives or extreme hikes, making capturing all of Petrified Forest’s beauty in less than 12 hours very manageable. Truth be told, I am unsure how you could stretch the park out anymore than one day without becoming resentful or bored, unless you wanted to do backcountry backpacking.

    I started my visit by driving into the park’s North entrance via I-40. There is only one main road through the entire park, and driving that road from point-to-point (Painted Desert Visitor Center to Rainbow Forrest Museum) without stopping takes about 45 minutes.

    Here are all the stops I made along the way; checking off all my Petrified Forest must-do boxes in under 12 hours:

    • The first building you come to after entering the park’s North entrance is the main visitor center, the Painted Desert Visitor Center, but during my visit, it was under construction and closed. However, I did walk to the Painted Desert Diner next door and paid $10 for their charbroiled chicken sandwich on a gluten-free bun with lettuce and tomatoes. A quick, cheap, hot bite to start off my exploration.
    • Because the main visitor center is under construction, we were told that the temporary visitor center was set up 10 minutes down the road at the Painted Desert Inn. We quickly stopped by for our obligatory stickers and stamps.
    • Outside the Painted Desert Inn is the Painted Desert Rim Trail, a 1.3 mile out-and-back trail. This short, easy to follow trail is a must because of the striking and vast pink, red, and white views of the Painted Desert below. As you drive further into the park, the colors will shift from red and pink hues to washed-out blues and purples, so skipping this first stop means you’ll be missing out.
    Painted Desert Rim Trail
    Painted Desert Rim Trail
    • Into history? The Route 66 pullout was my next stop along the road. No more than a quick stop – a 1932 Studebaker now marks the path of the historic, iconic highway. Shortly after the Route 66 pullout is Newspaper Rock, an overlook of two large boulders with over 600 petroglyphs. Again, no more than a five minute stop.
    • Keep driving south to get to the Historic Blue Forest Trail, an old 2.7 mile out-and-back CCC trail that takes you directly to the Blue Mesa Trail, an additional 1 mile paved loop. This was my favorite trail in the park, but I wouldn’t of known about it without using the AllTrails app. There is a pullout to mark the trailhead, but this trail is not listed on the park’s official map. The blue, gray, and purple badlands created an experience that was unlike any I’ve had on my 63 in 365 journey. And as an added treat, this trail was the first portion of the park where I began to see the namesake petrified wood scattered about.
    Historic Blue Forest Trail
    Historic Blue Forest Trail
    • Next stop: Want to learn more about, touch, climb on top of, or take selfies with the captivating petrified wood? The Crystal Forest Trail, a 1 mile loop, is the place to do all the above.
    Massive petrified wood piece on the Crystal Forest Trail
    Scattered petrified wood along the Crystal Forest Trail
    • At the end of the park’s main road is the Rainbow Forest Museum and the Giant Logs Loop (0.5 miles). Here you can see the largest petrified log in Petrified Forest National Park, 35 feet long, 10 feet across at its base, weighing about 44 tons, and 200-million-year-old. Mind-blowing. The Rainbow Forest Museum is also worth-wild, especially for understanding the prehistoric timeline and geology of the area.
    Largest petrified log in the NP on the Giant Logs Loop
    • Once at the South entrance of the park, Amory and I turned around, road back to the North entrance of the park, got onto I-40, and headed West toward Holbrook for Campfire Adventure Camp, our Hipcamp for the night.

    All in all, we spent 7 hours at Petrified Forest National Park, and I don’t feel we missed out on anything. The park’s attractions and landscapes are vastly different than any other national park and well worth a day trip, especially if you’re passing through the area.

    Will I return to the park? Probably not. Genuinely, I feel that I saw all there is to see and got the most of all that the park had to offer. To reiterate and add to the point made in this post’s title: Petrified Forest is a one-hit wonder, but a wonder worth visiting nonetheless.

    Happy trails to you reader, and hopefully one of those trails leads you to or through Petrified Forest National Park. Oh! And believe it or not, Amory and I are officially more than half-way through our 63 in 365 journey! As always, I will keep you posted. Until next Monday. Xoxo.